February 2011 Newsletter

February 2011 Newsletter

What’s in this issue

This newsletter is available as an MP3 audio download at <AudioSeaStories.net>. It is read by Michael and Patty Facius. We recommend a broadband Internet connection to download, since it is a large file.

You can also Download a printer friendly version <in MS Word> or as a <PDF file>.

Want to look up a previous newsletter? We've added an <on-line index> of all the Good Old Boat newsletters.

See you at the boat show!

Yes, indeed, we're headed for a boat show! No, not the Annapolis boat show. Not the Oakland Strictly Sail show. We're off to Portland, Maine, to attend the Maine Boatbuilders Show for the first time. The show will run from Friday through Sunday, March 18-20. Good Old Boat founders Karen Larson and Jerry Powlas, and publisher Michael Facius, will be there with a booth full of free sample copies of our magazine and smiles enough for six people. Please drop by and say hello. For more about the show, here's a handy link: <www.portlandcompany.com/boatShow>.

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Sailing vicariously

Good Old Boat has signed on as a sponsor of the Havasu Pocket Cruisers Convention on Lake Havasu, in western Arizona. This fun week of activities for trailersailers of all descriptions is set for February 14 through 21. There will be racing, cruising, seminars, dock walks, parties, boat show-and-tell and more.

While most of the Good Old Boat crew will be shivering up north and sailing vicariously, if you attend the event, please keep an eye open for Michael and Patty Facius, who will show up just for the weekend portion of the event. Michael is Good Old Boat's publisher, advertising manager, videographer, and culinary expert. He'll be visiting Lake Havasu in the last two roles. Look for him just behind any video camera you see; Patty generally has the microphone.

As for the founding editors, Karen Larson and Jerry Powlas have made a solemn pledge to show up in February 2012. Starting in 2012, Good Old Boat will be sponsoring a contest for participants at the event: The Good Old Boat Coolest Ever Owner Modification Competition. Naturally, the editors will want to get down to Arizona in February 2012 to meet the sailors and see the modifications they've made. As a bonus, the editors will also get away from Minnesota's snow and ice for a real sail in Arizona (no more of this vicarious sailing stuff). Hey! It's a job. Someone's got to do it!

For more details, including who's signed up, what kinds of boats, a description of seminars offered, a Google map of where participants are coming from, and a 10-minute promotional video describing the event, visit the website at <www.sailhavasu.com>.

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Thank you, Santa!

The holiday whirlwind was particularly dizzying at the Good Old Boat North Pole headquarters this year. More people than ever bought gift subscriptions, 10-year subscriptions, fleece vests and sweatshirts, T-shirts, ball caps, and back issue CDs. We nearly broke down the U.S. Postal Service delivery jeep with the loads. (This is a little-known secret, but even in the north country here, close to the North Pole, not very much travels by sleigh.) Our sincere thanks to each of you who chose to include Good Old Boat in your Christmas celebrations this year.

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Facebook friends

While we're bragging about our successes, Good Old Boat's Facebook fan number has climbed above 750. Our Facebook page is located at: <www.facebook.com/goodoldboat>. Have a look.

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We've linked up with TheSailingChannel.tv

Wander on over to our Good Old Boat videos page to see the free videos we've created so far. More are on the way. Our videos page is at: <www.goodoldboat.com/resources_for_sailors/videos/index.php>.
From there, you can wander further to TheSailingChannel for previews of excellent videos they're selling. Rentals of their documentaries will be available soon too. Some are sure to strike your fancy: <www.goodoldboat.com/resources_for_sailors/videos/sailingchannel_sampler.php>.

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In the News

You can help

Grand Marais, Michigan, a tourist town and Lake Superior harbor of refuge, with a wintertime population of 300 people, is struggling to keep its harbor open in spite of a broken breakwater. With the breakwater in disrepair, Lake Superior pours approximately 6,000 semitrailer truckloads of sand into the harbor every year.

The gutsy town residents have applied for help through the Reader's Digest "We Hear You, America Contest," and their town project is in the lead for the magazine's $40,000 grand prize. They're asking fellow boaters to log onto the Reader's Digest site once a day and vote for their cause. As goofy as it may seem, the contest rules invite each person to vote 10 times a day, so "give 'em a cheer" 10 times each time you log on. You can do this with more than one email address.

The site for all this cheering is: <wehearyouamerica.readersdigest.com>. To do this, you'll need to know the Grand Marais Zip Code: 49839.

Town resident Marc Oglevie writes, "Please help us out. It appears that we are not going to get any help from the USACE (Corps of Engineers), so we are going after all the funding we can to enable us to do this $6-million community project ourselves. We are a very determined community. This competition goes until February 7, 2011. Please help by cheering for Grand Marais."

For more information about Grand Marais and this project, go to <www.saveyourharbor.com/?page_id=7>.

Karen Larson is rooting for this little town. "They've had a tough time of it lately. I hope they win this one," she says. She votes every day.

New skippers at the helm of Charlie's Charts

P & S Marine of Seal Beach, California, is the new owner of Charlie's Charts, publisher of six cruising guides. Former owner Margo Wood says, "I am confident the new owners [Jo Russell and Captain Holly Scott] will continue the publication of cruising guides that are informative, easy to use, and provide current material for safe cruising. Although electronic navigation systems continue to advance at an amazing rate, there is nothing as reassuring and comforting as a reliable, proven hard copy in hand when preparing for, or experiencing, the challenges of cruising in unknown waters."

Paradise Cay expanding

Paradise Cay Publications, Inc., has purchased Robert Hale & Co., a Seattle-based wholesale book dealer specializing in nautical books. Paradise Cay Publications, located in Arcata, California, was founded in 1982 by Matt Morehouse, while he was working for a large San Francisco publishing house. By 1991, he left that firm and began a full-time career as an independent publisher. The company now has close to 100 nautical titles in print. Visit their website for more information at <www.paracay.com>.

Coast Guard Auxiliary offers courses

Was one of your New Year's resolutions to take one or more classes to improve your sailing knowledge and skills? The Coast Guard Auxiliary has just what you want. Some of the courses offered are:

If you are interested in any of these courses or others, join the Coast Guard Auxiliary by contacting your local Coast Guard Auxiliary Flotilla at <www.cgaux.org/units.php>.

More learning opportunities through webinars

The Great Lakes Cruising Club School (GLCCSchool) is offering new webinar tutorials, live interactive on-screen presentations. The sessions, which typically run 60 to 90 minutes, only require you to have a computer with a browser and Internet connection. No special software is required.

The topics include:

  • Getting started cruising the Great Lakes
  • Cruising introductions for each of the Great Lakes
  • Great Lakes weather, patterns, and reporting sources
  • Celestial navigation and much, much more.

For more information on courses and registration, go to <www.GLCCSchool.com>.

Lin and Larry Pardey to offer seminars

North America's favorite cruising couple will return to the U.S. West Coast in March to introduce Lin's newest book, Bull Canyon — A Boatbuilder, a Writer and Other Wildlife.

In late March, the Pardeys will present seminars in Port Townsend, Washington; Sausalito, California; and Newport, California. Topics for each venue are different, ranging from encouraging your partner to love cruising to handling storms at sea. A complete list of seminar topics, dates, and times can be viewed at the Pardeys' website, <www.landlpardey.com>.

Camp Melita Island's sailing program needs more instructors

Last year's call for instructors in the Good Old Boat Press Gang email news message resulted in 16 guest instructors for the 2010 Camp Melita Island [Montana] sailing program, providing a highly successful sailing experience for over 300 attendees. There is "increased demand for our [2011] program, which provides both youth and adults the chance to learn sailing," says adult sailing coordinator Chris Roberts.

Even though many of last year's instructors are returning, more skilled boaters are needed. Chris says, "The camp will house guests in cabin tents, feed you good meals and treat you well. You will have the opportunity to do a lot of sailing and we provide a variety of boats. However, transportation to and from Montana is at your own expense. Due to last year's popularity and the overwhelming response, I am encouraging those interested to contact me early in the year." Chris can be reached at 406-549-3090, or by email at <croberts@powwowcountry.com>. Information about Camp Melita Island (including gorgeous photos) can be found at <www.melitaisland.org>.

Remembering an old salt

Charlie Parks wrote to inform fellow readers about the loss of a well-known sailor, Reed Haslam. Reed will be remembered by many in St. Lucie, Florida. He established the Cerulean Cup annual bluewater perpetual trophy race from the St. Lucie Sailing Club to Ft. Pierce and back. A wise and gentle teacher, Reed taught sailing skills to men and women of all ages. Reed will be remembered as a great sailor, teacher, and friend.

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What's coming in March?

For the love of sailboats

  • Mariner 36 feature boat
  • Bristol 29.9 review

Speaking seriously

  • Watermakers 101
  • A new classic toerail
  • A fresh new deck
  • Making steel boats last
  • How a designer sees a deck by Robert Perry
  • A cockpit table built from scratch
  • Follow the sun with positionable solar panels
  • Multi-year shrinkwrap
  • Consignment stores

Just for fun

  • A photojournalist's dream: shooting Tom Colvin's Gazelle
  • Sailing with autism
  • Reflections: The seasons of our lives

What's more

  • Simple solutions: Another swinging solution
  • Quick and easy: Dual-purpose pillows
  • The view from here: The Princess Principle
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Havasu Pocket Cruiser Convention

February 14 – 21, 2011
Lake Havasu City, Arizona
The Fourth annual Lake Havasu Pocket Cruiser Convention is for trailersailors from all over the U.S. and Canada. Fun races, seminars, poker run, boat show and shine, parade, a "grudge match" between the north and the south—and much more. Go to <www.sailhavasu.com/index.html> to learn about this fun event.

Miami Boat Show and Strictly Sail Miami

February 17 – 21, 2011
Click on <www.strictlysailmiami.com> to learn about the seminars and special features of this year's show.

Maritime Center Spring Boating Symposium

March 18 – 20, 2011
Port Townsend, Washington
Join top boating experts and fellow sailors and powerboaters for the first Spring Boating Symposium, an innovative blend of interactive lectures and workshops, onboard boat demonstrations, and much more. The three main themes are seamanship, boating lifestyle and systems/vessels maintenance. Featured speakers include the Pardeys, Karen Sullivan, Brion Toss, and Chuck Hawley. More information can be found at <nwmaritime.org/symposium> or call 360-385-3628, ext. 106, or email symposium@nwmaritime.org.

Maine Boatbuilders Show

March 18 – 20, 2011
Portland, Maine
See the finest boatbuilders in the Northeast — sail, power, canoes and skiffs. Drop by the Good Old Boat booth and say hello to Jerry, Karen, and Michael. For more information, go to <www.portlandcompany.com/boatShow/index.html>.

Cruisers University

May 12 –15, 2011
Baltimore Inner Harbor Marine Center
Baltimore, Maryland
United States Yacht Shows, Inc., producer of the renowned United States Sail and Powerboat Shows, is launching a new event for aspiring and experienced cruisers: the first annual Cruisers University. Billed as "The Ultimate Aid to Navigation," the program will provide instruction in subjects ranging from "Crossing the Gulf Stream" to "Proper Provisioning" and "Cruising with Children" as well as master certification courses in diesel maintenance, weather forecasting, and more. For more information, click on <www.usboat.com/cruisers-university/home>.

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Looking for

Seeking two Alberg 37s

Da Kine, lost

Da Kine

The members of the Alberg 37 International Owners Association are looking for a "long-lost Alberg 37," once named Da Kine. The last known owners were Kelly and Rachel Carver of Baldwin, Michigan. The organization has Da Kine listed as a 1971 MKII yawl #71.

The group is also looking for information on an Alberg 37 that was seen recently at the dock in Tanny Cay, British Virgin Islands, following the Caribbean 1500.

Two hundred forty six Alberg 37s were built between 1967 and 1988 by the Whitby Boatworks in Whitby, Ontario. The Alberg 37 group has been tracking these boats since the early 1990s.
Tom Assenmacher

Info on System Three Water-Based Linear Polyurethane Paint

I'd like to know what experiences sailors have had using System Three's water-based LPUs.
Martin Pohrille

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How to beat the high cost of not sailing

by Brian Black

Around February of each year, when the cabin fever starts to get high, I find myself searching the Internet for used sailboats and/or equipment for my boat. I can't say that is a bad thing, because I have upgraded boats and equipment a couple of times. Through all of this surfing I learn a lot about boats and what I like and dislike about them. This year, I ran across a deal on a Bayfield 25 in Florida. I don't have a vehicle or trailer to move it, so the search for those things also ran through my mind. After awhile, with encouragement from my wife, I came to realize what a money pit this project could become and the fact that I really don't need another project. I really need to go sailing to cure my cabin fever.

And so it goes, year after year. I also realized that I still have a stove to install in the boat from last year . . . and a stereo and radio to hook up from two years ago. The high cost of not sailing continues to mount.

People sometimes ask, "Isn't sailing expensive?" I usually say it doesn't have to be; it can be really cheap to really, really expensive, depending on what you want to do. What I should say is that the sailing is free — getting blown about on the junction between aerodynamics and hydrodynamics is free. It is the not sailing that will really cost you.

The expenses of not sailing are not always obvious, though. They can come in the form of things not related to sailing and things directly related to sailing. The best way to beat the high cost of not sailing is to sail.

To figure your costs of not sailing, add up all the toys you have that are not cost-of-living items—things like the motorcycles, vacations, bicycles, kayaks, fishing equipment, sailboats, powerboats, jet skis, snow skis, snowmobiles, and so on. These things really add up. Then take all these items and divide the costs per year by the number of days you went sailing last year and you will see that the cost per day is quite high. The number you get is not the cost of sailing, but the cost of not sailing. Sailing doesn't require any of these things, except the sailboat, but the boat doesn't have to be yours.

For someone who really wants to sail, not sailing can also have physiological costs. After sailing, sailors usually feel relaxed and peaceful. This peacefulness can last for weeks, so it must be good for you. Go sailing as much as possible and you will lower your cost of not sailing, especially if you don't have a boat.

But wait! I just ran across a Hunter 27 for only $990. That could be such a sweet boat!

I need to go sailing!

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How I spent my 80th birthday . . . 9-26-2010

by Matt Hahner

We had anchored in Mill Creek in the Great Wicomico River off the Chesapeake Bay for the previous five days. The following morning we planned to ride the switch to northerly winds back to the marina. The evening offered a gorgeous sunset . . . "Red sky at night, sailor's delight." The water surface was like glass. Four sailboats kept us company that night tucked across the cove.

This had been a shakedown cruise. We have sailed Entchen (our 1967 Rawson 30 ketch) for many nautical miles since we first stepped aboard in 1967. However, it had been 29 years since we sailed her last.

On the morning of my birthday, a northerly breeze riffled the water's surface. After breakfast, clean-up, stowing items, hanking on the jib, and rowing the dog ashore for her personal relief, we got down to the departure. Three of the other sailboats had left. The remaining sailor's goal was north — so he was staying put. A small craft advisory was issued.

At 9:30 a.m. I got my gloves on and went forward to pull the plow anchor. I had to use the deck bucket to slosh off the inky, black mud that came up with the anchor and chain. I secured the anchor and then we were on our way.

The closer we came to the river entrance, the more wind and higher seas we encountered. There were several other sailors heading out too. I raised the jib to assist the engine and ease the boat's motion. We were making good headway out to the Great Wicomico Light, where we could pick up our heading southward.

Uh-oh! The engine quit. For some reason, I had been having to bleed the injectors periodically to get the engine to start. Well, up went the mainsail. We sailed on to the mark we had set for our turn south. As we made the course southward, I took a look at our dinghy that was in tow. At 6 knots, water shoots up through the dinghy's daggerboard slot. I had forgotten that, in the past, I had always stuffed it with a short piece of rope to prevent that.

Well, my next challenge was how to bail more than 150 pounds of water out of the dinghy as we flew along before 2-foot seas. I horsed the dinghy up as close to the stern as I could. Our deck bucket has a fathom of line attached to it. I tossed the bucket into the dinghy and could capture between a pint and a quart of water each time. It was a painfully slow procedure.

When the dinghy was bailed out as much as possible, I turned my thoughts to the engine situation. With the wind and sea conditions, we would have to be in a calmer, more protected place to bleed the injectors. However, I could unscrew the 32 screws holding down the cockpit hatch. Then it would be easy to remove when the time and place permitted. Each screw takes at least 20 turns. That's what I did.

I had to bail the dinghy a couple more times during the course of the day. We made good time getting to the entrance of the Rappahannock River. Our destination was about 13 miles up that river. We made the turn around 2 p.m. We went from a broad reach to a beam reach. We sailed under the Robert Norris bridge and aimed for the entrance to the Corrotoman River. The Yankee Point Sailboat Marina is only about 2 miles from that entrance. At the entrance to the river, we rounded the Red Marker #4 and went on a close reach.

It was close quarters with shallow water along the shoreline. We made a couple of short tacks and, as we were ready to again come about . . . we grounded in soft mud.

I tried sailing off, but to no avail. I now had my perfect opportunity to bleed the injectors. It was 6 p.m. The engine started up as soon as the injectors were tended to. We tried backing Entchen off . . . no luck.

We had yet another perfect opportunity. The dog had been pleading since noon to go ashore. I got her into the dinghy and was making my way to a small section of sand when I saw a woman motioning me to her dock. I never ignore a woman's beckoning.

Matt Hahner

Pam Jones offered Sadie the use of her lawn facilities and told me that high tide would be at 1:30 a.m., so we would probably float free between 10 and 11 p.m. Back aboard, I fixed a hearty meal of beef ramen noodles. We lay down to rest around 8:30 p.m. to wait out the tide. At 11:22 p.m., we hopped up to check things. We had floated free!

I fired up the engine and got out our spotlight. We headed up the river to a wide spot where I picked a good place to drop the pick in 13 feet of water. We went back to bed at midnight.

I was a bit battered, bruised, scratched, nicked, sore, sunburned, and very happy old captain!

Tomorrow would be another day and the start of another year.

The accompanying photo of Matt was taken not long after his 80th birthday. We left the date stamp on the photo just to prove it to our readers and ourselves. The events of his birthday must have aged Matt a bit, but we don't think he looks a day over 65. It all goes to show that this sailing and cruising lifestyle really is good for us. Matt's point is well taken: we get challenged, we work our bodies and minds hard, we overcome, and we can afterward take great satisfaction in our achievements. The challenges keep us young.

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Lumber and caulking and power tools, Oh My!
One Group's Adventure in Boatbuilding

by Emmie Ogden and Emily Britton

The summer of 2009 was an interesting one for the members of Venture Crew 2080. A co-ed group, ages 14 to 21, based out of Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, we spent the majority of the summer constructing four 16-foot Featherwind sailboats under the supervision of local boatbuilder Nelson Bennett.

Featherwind 1

This activity was quite out of the ordinary for our Venture Crew, a branch of the Boy Scouts of America that generally focuses on high-adventure sports like rock climbing, backpacking, and scuba diving. But every Tuesday night, for four months, our group met for several hours to saw, hammer, sand, sew sails, and caulk seams.

Our crew was offered this opportunity when Nelson Bennett, a long-time wooden boat enthusiast, volunteered to lead the crew in the construction of the Featherwinds. Nicknamed the "200$ sailboat," the Featherwind model is enjoyed by sailors nationwide for its speed and portability. Nelson chose the model for its inexpensive materials and simple construction. Although only a few of us had any experience working with wood, the entire group jumped wholeheartedly into the project, intent not only on creating sailboats, but also on learning new skills. One enthusiastic member of our crew, Jessie Brogdon, said, "At first I was not excited about building these boats—I was intimidated by the power tools. But I began to trust myself and my new skills more and more as we went on. Now I'm perfectly comfortable working with wood."

A lot of time and materials went into building these boats. In addition to hours upon hours of labor, each of the four boats required assembling over one hundred wooden pieces. Local stores pitched in by offering discounted materials and free gallons of paint for the Featherwinds.

Featherwind 2

The boats were a learning experience; we not only acquired new skills and enjoyed the satisfaction of seeing a difficult project through to completion, we also learned to work more efficiently as a group. Because of the varying tasks involved, each of us was able to contribute in different ways, working as a team to responsibly balance the workload. Venture Crewmember Chelsea Schachle admits, "It was a lot of hard work, but I'm so glad we did it. What a great experience to have!" Another of our members, Sam Britton, says he feels this whole process "has brought our group to new heights of trust and cohesion."

Building boats together was definitely an arduous process, but we were all pleasantly surprised as we watched piles of wood and boxes of screws develop into boats complete with keels, oars, and, of course, sails. We launched the boats as soon as the paint dried—just in time for the favorable winds of fall.

Nelson was equally delighted with our hard work and dedication to the building process. He says, "These boats are a great achievement for a group of young people. I am proud of everyone involved in this project."

Learning the unique skill of boatbuilding has been a wonderful experience for all of us. We'll see you on the water!

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Felicity found

by Robert Engel

While visiting my son Matthew for New Year's 2010, I read Cal Beggs' Mail buoy letter from the July 2010 issue of Good Old Boat, "The special kind of happy hour," in which he told about his sons finding and buying the family's former good old boat. Almost the same thing happened to my family.

I owned a 1969 30-foot Morgan sloop, Felicity. Matthew grew up sailing on Felicity and we had many sailing adventures. We raced Felicity in local races and the 180-mile Around Long Island Regatta several times.

Matthew went away to college, graduated, got married, and is the father of three sons. I sold Felicity during that time for a 1970 Morgan 38 sloop, Evening Star. Felicity's new owner sailed her for one summer season, then his work landed him in England. The 30 went up on the hard.

One night on the Morgan [online discussion] board a man asked if anyone had any experience with the Morgan 30, as he was looking at one. I answered some of his questions then asked where he was going to sail the boat. He answered that he'd be sailing on the Great South Bay on Long Island, which was where I'd sailed Felicity. I asked him which 30 he was looking at. It was my old 30.

The yard didn't know how to get in touch with the owner; they just received a check each month. I knew where the owner's mother lived. She was able to give him contact information.

The man contacted the owner in England, then inspected the boat. He said the sails were in ragged condition (I put new sails on Felicity when I owned her—how could they be ragged?), there was a foot of water in the main saloon, and the boat needed more TLC than he wanted to do. I asked about price (I had sold her for $15,000) and he said he offered the owner $3,000. The owner told him he was in the ballpark.

I immediately called Matthew and told him Felicity was for sale and the price was right. "I'm not going to buy a boat," he replied.

Several days later he called and told me he had gone to look at Felicity. He found the new sails up in the V-berth. I told him he should call England and offer $1,500. He again told me he wasn't going to buy a boat.

Three days later he called me and told me he had bought Felicity for $2,300. I reminded him that he told me he wasn't going to buy a boat. He said he just couldn't help himself. "If it wasn't Felicity I wouldn't have made an offer." Over this winter, he is doing the necessary TLC to get the boat back to the way he remembers it. When the boat goes in the water in the Great South Bay at Sayville this spring, I will surely be there to help him sail Felicity—reborn.

Robert tells us this is an edited version of a story that can be found in his book, Sail Tales, which can be found on Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com, and other sites.

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Book Reviews

The following book reviews have been posted online.

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Q&A with Jerry Powlas, Technical Editor

Instruments and good old boats

I saw in the December 2010 newsletter that the January 2011 issue has an article on new covers for old instruments. I have a related, if perhaps more complex, question: do you have any advice on new instruments for old boats?

My good old boat is a 1986 Compac 27. When I bought the boat she had ancient instruments, including a Datalink unit showing wind, speed, and depth (when it worked). I would like to install new (or at least functioning) instruments showing wind and depth. I am also planning to add a simple autopilot. I prefer to avoid complex electronics and systems where everything is linked up and can calculate the time to make coffee in the morning. Something old-fashioned, reliable, and economical would work best with my sailing habits and the style of the boat. I'd prefer to not drill new holes in the bottom for a transducer and I'd be content to use my handheld GPS unit for speed information when I need it. Lastly, I am not keen on wheel-mounted autopilots. They require a rather ugly plastic attachment at the wheel that is an aesthetic affront to a nice boat.

Do you have any advice on the selection of instruments and in-hull transducer that might work for me? Also, do you have some advice about using a simple tiller autopilot on a wheel-steered boat (with emergency tiller)? I'd appreciate your view or directions to previous articles that could provide answers.

Thanks for your help. Good Old Boat is a great magazine!
Jens Reinke

Jerry replies:

We really don't have any articles on these topics that will help you so I'll just give you my own somewhat-biased opinions.

I share a lot of your preferences, so I'll start with the one I don't share. I've never been a fan of wind instruments. I think a skilled skipper can learn everything he needs to know about the wind without any electronic device to stand between him and reality. I like a simple spar fly and don't even mount the tabs that try to show tacking angles. If the spar fly is mounted near the masthead's all-around white light, the system will work well enough at night. Frankly, the only advantage I can see to electronic wind instruments is that they give the helmsman some information that he might not get from "real indicators" at night if the spar fly cannot be illuminated.

Beyond that, I advise people to look to the sea conditions and the amount of heel on the boat and run the ship accordingly. I don't care what the wind speed indicator says the wind speed is, and on boats I've sailed on that had electronic wind indicators, I've not seen much to link predicted conditions with observed conditions. One of the reasons for this is that wind speed varies so much with height above the water. The short version is that I don't have much interest in wind instruments except to say that they seem to be expensive and amazingly unreliable, but still loved by their owners. Thus, I could not recommend a particular brand. I have tried hand-held devices and find them to be worse yet.

Back to the main thread, I think most boats could do well with a good compass and a depth sounder. There are a lot of compasses out there. If you have a wheel, parallax is not an issue, but big compasses are nice. They are also expensive. I favor the Ritchie Globemaster and the KVH digital fluxgate compasses. We have both on Mystic. The digital compass is a luxury, but I have had one on every boat I've owned since I raced Flying Scots.

As for depth sounders, there are problems with compatibility. But since the same company makes most of the transducers for most of the brands, your odds are good. Be sure to use a sealant that is appropriate. There are RTV compounds that are not suitable for use under water. If you use LifeSeal, it will work well and you will find it easy to use and clean up.

I don't have a favorite brand of depth sounder. As for features, I think the size of the numerals matters. Decide where the readout will be placed, then make numerals the size of the ones the instrument will have and tape them there to see if you can read them at a very quick glance. Some instruments have displays that are simply too small for my tastes or perhaps too small for my old eyes.

I recommend wheel pilots because they work much better, but I have seen tiller pilots adapted to wheels. It works after a fashion for steering in calm conditions, but you are limited to less than a third of a turn of the wheel. A third of a turn is all you need most of the time, but the whole rig (once adapted) is kind of an unnatural act. Naturally, belowdecks autopilots are the very best, but I tend to drive cars that cost less than the price of those, so I have never had one of my own. When I've used them on other people's boats, I have to admit they are a quantum leap better than a good wheel pilot.

In fact, I share your take on wind instruments for sailing purposes. I used to sail small boats, then decided to take the ASA keelboat courses. The sailing school had a newer Hunter 34 with everything from the Raymarine catalogue onboard, all linked to the autopilot, but the boat did not feel like a sailboat to me. Nonetheless, I think I may find a wind instrument useful so I can learn how to relate weather forecasts to actual sailing conditions in my area (mostly southern Chesapeake). When the forecast has, say, 35 knots, does this feel safe? Do 25 knots seem comfortable for a crew of non-sailors? But I don’t see it as a necessary instrument either; perhaps I should listen more to weather reports as I’m sailing.

I bought the Compac last year and it had just had a new big Ritchie compass installed. Expensive, yes, but the previous owner paid for it. It is the only instrument I use frequently while sailing. Thanks for the hints on depth sounders and wheel pilots. My cars are cheaper than belowdecks pilots, too!

Yes, I am very fond of my Compac. I also have a Precision 18 that I love equally, but it is a very different kind of boat.

Here is how I evaluate wind. We sail a C&C 30 that has a brochure weight of 8000 lbs. and probably cruises at closer to 10,000 lbs. We carry a 170 genoa, 150 with a foot reef, 110 with a foot reef, and a storm jib. The main has three full reefs. We have a storm trysail we never use and a sea anchor we don't use either.

  • Flat water to the beginning of little whitecaps (whitecaps start to break out at around 10 knots of true wind or a little more): we use our full main and the big 170 jib and reduce to the 150 jib as the wind picks up.
  • With small waves and evenly distributed whitecaps: at this point we reef something. If we want to work at it, the main and the full 150 jib will handle the low end of this. For a more relaxing time, we can also use the full main and the small 110 jib or reefed 150. (The reefed 150 jib is about the same as the full 110.)
  • As the wind rises to 15 knots, my suggestion is to reef from back to front. On our boat, that means taking one or two reefs in the main and flying the full 110 jib.
  • When the boat will not carry the full 110 and the main has two reefs, my guess is the wind is about 20 to 25 knots: at this point, we reef the 110 and then, if the wind rises more, take the third reef in the main.
  • At somewhere around 30 to 35 knots the boat will feel overpowered with all reefs in the main and a reef in the 110. This is when we strike the 110 and set the storm jib (a reinforced Flying Scot jib).

The boat can manage 30 to 35 knots of wind, but not the seas that will develop, given enough fetch and time. So, this wind can be used when close to a windward shore, or in tight quarters where there is not much fetch. In open water, the wave height will develop into about half the wind speed. Thus, 30-knot winds will make 15-foot waves.

Any time the wave height is equal to or greater than the beam of the boat the boat can be rolled violently and might be in danger of being rolled beyond recovery. Thus, even 20 knots of wind with hundreds of miles of fetch and hours of blowing can make dangerous seas. As I recall, this is the level of small craft advisory. By the time small craft warnings are issued, my 30-foot coastal cruiser should not be contemplating long open passages.

There are other sail combinations, some going the other way. A full main and storm jib will handle a pretty hard blow and the boat will stand up to it. She will also stand up to a good blow with a full main and no jib at all. Pointing suffers with this. The boat will sail well with no main and an overlapping jib, but have a care because when you try to ease a jibsheet to flatten the boat out, the jib just gets fuller and has more tendency to knock down the boat.

Never carry more sail downwind than you can carry upwind. Never let steep seas get on your beam, even if you have to tack downwind. In steep seas, particularly old seas rolling in toward shore, the deeper the water you can get to the less the waves will affect your boat. This is true even up to 50- to 80-foot depths.

Too little sail is as bad as too much sail. The hull and rigging have the same drag no matter what sails are flown. As sail is shortened, the lift-to-drag ratio of the sails goes more and more toward drag and the boat will want for speed. Slow is bad. There is much safety in keeping flow going over the shark fin keel. If the flow over the keel stops and you are hit with a gust sideways, the boat may not shoot ahead and point up as it should in a gust. It will simply be knocked down. Being stopped or even going too slow is dangerous in high gusty winds.
Jerry Powlas, Technical Editor

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Mail buoy

A workplace exchange? Brilliant!

The idea of providing a workplace exchange for sailors is one of those blindingly brilliant and simple ideas that, after someone else figures it out, you're left wondering, "Why didn't I think of that!" Kudos to the staff at Good Old Boat. I wish all of you ongoing great success with this new endeavor.
Bill Witherup

Thanks for the "atta-crew." Several of us were involved in making our job-seekers online listing come true. For those who missed the announcement, Good Old Boat has developed a new online service to help unemployed, or underemployed, subscribers and members of their families find jobs.

On the other side of the coin, those who would like to hire good people (that would be sailors) will find the best of 'em among the handy, can-do sort of people who read Good Old Boat magazine.

In order to enable this site to make matches as it should, we're searching for those who are looking for work and those who are looking for workers. If you fit in either category, here's what it's all about and where all posted ads appear:


Here's where we offer a few guidelines and tips for posting your online ad:


Here's the form for posting your ad:


This service is free to our subscribers. Take it from us, our readers are creative, resourceful, and know how to get things done. We really do think sailors are the best possible addition to anyone's staff.

Lancer 25s compared

Thank you, Gregg Nestor and Good Old Boat, for reviewing the Lancer 25 in the January 2011 issue. I was introduced to the Lancer 25 in February 2009 when my friend Duane wanted me to go along for a test sail in Castaic Lake north of Las Angeles. Duane ended up buying the 1975 model, similar to the one reviewed. When I commented about how much I enjoyed how she sailed, he said, "I know where there's another one." The following Friday we drove to Ramona, California, and I drove away with my first sailboat.

Lancer 25 at sunset

The differences between the three models are significant and involve more than "equipment or cabin layout." Where the L25 has a draft of 2 feet 4 inches, both the L25 MK-IV and MK-V have a draft of 36 inches. Also, the ballast increased from 1,200 to 1,300 pounds and the displacement from 3,400 to 3,600 pounds. Above the waterline, the four portlights are replaced by six ports. I have since replaced my ports, all of which can be opened. Also, the L25 and MK-IV are masthead rigs, the MK-V is fractional, and on my MK-IV there are both inboard and outboard headsail tracks. I also have a split backstay. In the L25's cockpit, the water drains into the aft lazarette, which causes water to flood the cockpit when heeled. The MK-IV's drains are forward of the traveler and drain outboard. I've never had the cockpit flood while heeling. Where the L25 has stanchions with a single lifeline, the MK-IV and MK-V have dual lifelines.

On my 1979 MK-IV model, there is an anchor locker large enough to accommodate both 14- and 25-pound anchors and 330 feet of rode. Behind a watertight bulkhead is what I refer to as the pump locker where the head pump and deck pump-out hardware are located. This space is about 8 inches deep and easily accessible above and behind the head — it's where I also store jackets and foul weather gear. Lancer discontinued the stainless-steel sink in the head area with the MK-IV.

In the cabin, the port berth slides inboard and accommodates "two." My first mate is 5 feet 2 inches and I'm 5 feet 8 inches and we find this berth cramped, especially for the feet, and prefer sleeping in the cockpit, which I modified. With the seat cushions doubled up and a twin blow-up mattress, this space is very comfortable for two. We sail in southern California and Nevada and can sleep outside most nights.

There is a table that seats three on the port side and makes into a single berth. The galley arrangement is similar between yachts except I built a two-burner propane stove and don't have a refrigerator or microwave like the Scotts do aboard Bump-A-Noggin. The MK-IV's water tank, which I removed, is immediately below the cockpit. I prefer to store water in 5-gallon Igloo containers and store them in the keel area while underway and then move them to the starboard quarter berth while at anchor. This frees up the area below the cockpit to store sails. The two aft quarter berths are similar between vessels.

To remove the foam-backed vinyl headliner and inspect electrical or deck hardware fasteners, one must first remove thousands of staples and wood molding so I wouldn't consider this "easy access," as indicated in the article. Also, the chainplate and deck stainless-steel bolts are encased in fiberglass, which isn't a good environment for stainless steel if the seal leaks. I've removed the fiberglass surrounding the fasteners for the teak handholds and plan to move the chainplates from inside the cabin to outside the toerail later this year.

Besides sounding the deck for soft spots as Gregg suggested, the L25 and MK-IV have painted plywood in the lazarette. I've heard of owners who have spent a lot of resources repairing this problem. I don't have additional information about the MK-V.

For more information about Lancers, or if you are looking for like-minded sailors there are 48 Lancer 25 registered owners at <forums.lancer.sailboatowners.com>.
Steve Crawford

Furling backward?

I was going through the January 2011 issue, page by page, and came across your story, "Partners in sailing." Good story. As I got to the opposite page, though, I looked down at the photo of the boat and stopped cold. The sail is furled backward. Much of our repair business is replacing UV covers on headsails; a number of replacements are caused by furling the sail backward.

I also noticed the furler on the boat is a Plastimo 810-T, which I sold and installed some time ago. I am sure we set it up right and wonder how the new owners started furling the sail backward.

Keep up the great work and the great magazine.
Jerry K. Fultz
Sail Care, Inc.

Another reader noticed

Gibb's sail furled correctly

Gibb's sail furled correctly now

Your magazine arrived in the first mail delivery after Christmas and I took it and a cup of coffee to the quiet of my garage workshop for a bit of a read without kids, dogs, squeaking toys, et al. I found Steve Gibb's article of interest, but you will note that the headsail is rolled backwards.
Scott Kearney

Right side up now

I appreciate the eagle-eyed observers who noted our jib was furled the wrong way. She's working beautifully now. This photo was taken near Annapolis during the Good Old Boat regatta last fall.
Steve Gibb

Pressure difference provides bouyancy

Don Launer's article on buoyancy in the September 2010 issue of Good Old Boat was well presented and beautifully illustrated, but he left out the most direct — and to me most interesting — explanation of buoyancy. It is fine to say, along with Archimedes, that a body is supported by the weight of water that it displaces, but in terms of the actual force that opposes gravity and keeps my boat from sinking, that explanation is lacking. In fact, my boat is supported by water pressure.

It is easy to understand what is happening if you imagine a cube filled with cement that is suspended under water with two surfaces parallel to the surface. No matter how deep it is, water pressure will be pressing on the cube's six sides, and the pressure at any point will depend on the depth, increasing by almost a half-pound per square inch for every foot that point is below the surface. That pressure, of course, results from the weight of the water above.

Now, the pressures on the four vertical sides of the cube cancel each other out, two by two. However, the pressure on the bottom surface of the cube is greater than the pressure on the top because of the increased depth, and that pressure difference is what provides buoyancy.

If our cube is full of air, rather than cement, then it will float and the water pressure on the top surface is zero, so that all of the pressure on the bottom surface provides buoyancy. The reason that the cube sinks deeper and deeper into the water as it is loaded — like our boats — is that, in going deeper, it encounters greater pressure on the bottom surface and, hence, additional buoyancy to counter the load.

None of this is at odds with Archimedes' principle, as it is the weight of the water displaced that creates the increased pressure at greater depths. However, as a hands-on sailor, I find the pressure-difference explanation of buoyancy more direct and ultimately helpful in understanding why and how things float.

By the way, the exact same reasoning explains why lighter-than-air balloons ascend.
Lenny Reich

Don explains

I have no disagreement with Lenny's explanation of buoyancy. The reason I didn't carry the discussion further is that the 101 series is just that — a very brief description of a nautical subject, limited to 800 to 1,000 words.

A book could be written on buoyancy — and many have. In fact our old friend Archimedes wrote the first one, On Floating Bodies, a two-volume treatise on the science that later became known as hydrostatics.
Don Launer

Would the safety line hold?

If the splice shown in the January 2011 issue Quick and Easy article, "Anchor rode safety line," were to fail, that light line would snap in the blink of an eye. To ensure that you don't lose your test anchor, shackling a proven rode to the anchor and leaving slack, or even tying a line with an anchor bend would be the way to go. The only thing the light line shown in the article will do is index how much the splice settles in. I have never tested a splice I have done. If I wanted to test one, I'd certainly back it up with a line strong enough to take the load.
Len Lipton

More safety line concern

As a person with decades of rigging experience, I feel compelled to comment on the "Anchor rode safety line" article. The author uses a plastic (i.e., nylon) thimble. For an anchor rode, this is an incredibly bad choice. If one's anchor arrangement requires a thimble, then by all means ensure that it is a stainless or galvanized thimble. A plastic thimble simply is not robust enough for the rigors of an anchor rode.

The author placed seizing over the eye splice. Laying seizing over a correctly done eye splice serves no useful purpose. Perhaps the author is attempting to make the eye splice tightly fit the thimble, but that gets us to tying the eye splice correctly in the first place. Seizing over the eye splice is completely superfluous and a waste of time.

All the black tape on top of the seizing and on top of the eye splice is more unnecessary stuff. The tape only obscures the eye splice from visual inspection.

The author goes to great length explaining how he "tests" the eye splice by pulling on it with a motor vehicle. A correctly done eye splice is incredibly strong to begin with, in the range of 90 to 100 percent of the underlying rope and does not need a test to validate its strength. Time would be better spent learning how to correctly make a three-stranded eye splice.

That leaves us with the "safety line." Most readers can see the safety line is essentially nylon-braid clothesline. Not particularly strong stuff. The anchor rode appears to be about 9/16- or 5/8-inch three-strand, a very strong anchor rode. The notion that nylon clothesline is a safety line to this arrangement is ridiculous.

If one learns how to correctly make an eye splice with three-strand, all this useless seizing, tape, testing, and safety line are completely unnecessary.

I was surprised and disappointed that Good Old Boat gave this example of poor rigging such prominence.
Donald Smith

Henry answers

"Anchor rode safety line" was my approach to making sure that the splice was going to hold. When it comes to boating items, I am a "belt and suspenders" type of person, since I know (from experience) that if something can go wrong, it will go wrong. People do things differently based on their training, background, boating environment, type of boat, and the like. It all depends, as noted by the letters on the subject received by the Good Old Boat staff.

I have used an industrial-grade nylon thimble for the last 10 years with no problems. Of course, when I create a new anchor rode, I use a new thimble. I have used both galvanized and stainless thimbles. For my use and boating environment, the nylon thimble works quite nicely.

There are a number of ways to test a splice, I wrote about just one of them. I learned to splice (long, short, and eye) in my teens while a Boy Scout. While not always necessary, we were taught to seize the end of a splice to "make sure" all will hold as desired. Even a nice, tapered splice had "fuzzy" ends (no electric-powered hot knives back then). I also learned back then that a splice can look "right" and still fail. Hence, I test what I create to make sure I have done it correctly. The seizing used, by the way, is dental floss tape. It does not rot, comes in a handy container, and does the job. The black tape will be removed after everything has "set."

The "safety line" is one of the neat modern lines with better than 2,000-pound breaking strength. I use 1/2-inch rode for my boat because it is easy to handle. Since this was testing and not working conditions, the load would not be for very long and the water fairly shallow (if I went with the boat/water approach to the test). Hence, all the line had to do was hold things together long enough for me to recover the chain and anchor if the splice failed. All things considered, I thought 2,000-pound breaking strength line was sufficient for the purpose.

I should note that my boating area and boating use is congenial most of the time, although I have been out in winds of 20 knots and higher and accompanying seas when with the race committee for the PHRF fleet. Most of the time, it is 10- to 15-knot winds and calmer seas. Hence, the anchor, rode, and so on, do not get heavy use holding my Sisu 26.
C. Henry Depew

Billboard tarps

Your December 2010 Newsletter Mail buoy about recycling billboard vinyls reminded me that I purchased a recycled billboard tarp several years ago. I have two observations. First, the tarp held up quite well and I used it for several seasons with little degradation of the tarp material. Second, the logo for the billboard was painted on the tarp material and did not adhere well. The wind stripped it off and made a mess all over the yard, which wasn't very much fun to clean up.
Dennis Rieger

Billboard pond

Billboard tarp pond

We bought a billboard tarp that advertised a summer law school session with a dorky looking student on it and I can report that it's been holding water in since June 2010. This pond is the footprint of where our shop used to be. We moved it up next to the barn as part of the big Sara B re-build (see "A tug for Sara B," January 2011).

I have so far resisted using plastic on the boat because of ventilation concerns. This fall, I tailored an old Dacron mainsail I had around. We shall see how that holds up and please note the plastic tarps, as your advertiser noted, are really heavy to move around. I bet you could sew them just fine. I sewed straps for tie downs onto a trucker's tarp.
Susan Gately

Billboard yurt

Billboard tarp yurt

This is the yurt we built for our fire-eating troupe's backstage area at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival. The white material we used to wrap the yurt is billboard material that my husband, Chris, picked up locally (it was an old Gatorade billboard, so the interior was almost entirely orange). It worked out fabulously, but it definitely off-gasses. It was fine for temporary exposure, but I wouldn't live inside something that gave off that much of a chemical odor — but not that many people are going to be covering their boats with billboard tarps and living in them.
Theresa Meis

PVC holding tank

I was intrigued by the holding tank made from large diameter PVC pipe ("An ingenious holding tank," September 2010). I wish there had been more detail in the article. I understand gluing end caps on a length of pipe, but how did he install the inlet, vent fitting and pump-out outlet in the end caps and tubing wall?

It seems to me that in the design of many good old boats, it was assumed that the head would be pumped overboard. Thus, generally one must be very creative to find a way to install adequately sized holding tanks. In the case of my Coronado 35, this would require cutting larger openings in the fiberglass liner to get a tank bigger than about 12 gallons in. I have an old Monomatic electric recirculating head now, but as no repair parts are available, someday I will have to replace it with something different. I have installed a 12-gallon tank under my aft cabin berth, which, along with a macerator pump, allows me to empty and recharge the head while away from the dock. An article on the basics of installing holding systems would be of interest to me.
Mike Montesinos

Gregg Nestor responds

It's always good to know that someone's reading my work. Thanks for your interest in my article. Unfortunately, it was almost exactly two years ago that I met and briefly visited with Thaddeus, the gentleman who had built the PVC pipe holding tank. Relying on memory, I do know that the three fittings (fill, pumpout, and vent) were glued into holes that were drilled into the pipe and/or end caps. I don't know whether they were also tapped before gluing. It would probably depend upon the wall thickness of the PVC components. Recalling how shipshape everything was on board his boat, it wouldn't surprise me that the fittings were both tapped and glued.
Due to your request, I have written an article for a future issue of Good Old Boat on installing a holding tank. You're right that this is an important owner modification for many good old boats. Thanks for the suggestion.
Gregg Nestor

Jerry Powlas offers an opinion

I have not made a PVC pipe holding tank, but I have worked with the materials enough to offer some advice. I met a fellow once who said that PVC pipe had no place on a boat. I hope he was wrong because I've used it in a lot of places on the boat I'm restoring. Mind you, I have yet to use the boat.

Where PVC pipe can be joined using the primer and pipe cement made for that purpose, it is the best choice. Follow the instructions exactly, and you will get very strong, very reliable, joints. This joint is made by a process called solvent welding and it is probably stronger than if the two parts were molded originally as one piece. On the other hand, if you don't have a factory-made socket, don't even consider it. The precision fit is critical.
There are other methods of joining plastic pipe — rubber couplings, pipe threads, and such. All are preferable to making a "non-plumber-approved" joint. Still, there will come a time.

PVC and CPVC pipe can be glued very effectively with epoxy resin. You should "flame treat" the plastic before making the glue joint. The parts need not fit closely. Use a large fillet on both sides where you can, and don't be afraid to use plywood gussets to support a small pipe passing through a large one if there is a lot of strain on the joint. There are hole saws made for plumbers to use on walls the pipe must pass through. These holes are large clearance holes, but that is OK if you use epoxy.

I used PVC or CPVC pipe on the epoxy/plywood water and holding tanks I made for the Mega 30. These tanks had dip tubes, vents, and fill tubes. All these connections were made with PVC or CPVC pipe passing through plywood. I have not made plastic-to-plastic joints yet, but I'd guess that the most important thing would be the flame treating and the use of very large fillets. The fillets will be made with filled epoxy and are quite strong in their own right. If you try to glue pipe together without the fillets, you will not have enough area in the joint and it will not be strong.

PVC and CPVC pipe are good materials, but they have two drawbacks: they are brittle when cold and they expand and contract with temperatures at a much higher rate than other common materials. Both of these characteristics can be accommodated by how the piping is mounted and braced. Try to avoid rigid mountings on both ends of a long span; this will be particularly critical in the case of the large pipes used to make a holding tank. When mounting the tank, clamp the pipe in the middle somewhere and let the ends "float" or slide on something. What you need to create is something like the expansion joint on a bridge.

Because the pipe can be brittle when cold, try not to put a lot of stress on it. These pipes are not particularly good structural materials and should not be used that way.

Finally, you will find rubber couplings in the builders' stores. These can be in the form of straight couplings, reducer couplings, or elbows. The rubber is a good way to take the stress off of a joint. When you mount dip tubes into a tank, you can glue-in pipes that are one size too large, put a reducing coupling on the end of that pipe, and slip the smaller pipe right through it to the bottom of the tank. This gives the dip tube flexibility and makes it replaceable.

Check to make sure you have the overhead clearance for it to come out.
Jerry Powlas, Technical Editor

Mike replies

Thank you for the reply. The whole idea is intriguing to me. You could build this type of tank in a variety of configurations, like an L-shaped tank with an elbow in the center. If you are working with a small opening into larger area below, you could make the tank in smaller pieces that would pass through the opening and then glue them together in place. Under the aft berth in my center cockpit Coronado 35, which is essentially like a large V-berth open below, I could build in place a U-shaped tank that wrapped around the seat between the heads of the two berths. Using this method, I could install a much larger tank than a typical rectangular one that would fit through the access openings in one piece. Thank you for the idea.
Mike Montesinos

Try a cruising cat

Reading Jim Cuddy's letter, "When you take it from my cold …" (Mail buoy, November 2010) prompted me to suggest that he try a small cruising catamaran. I agree with him about age and pitching decks. I'm 68 and sail a Hirondelle cruising catamaran. I love the stability and no-heel sailing. It's also great for my young grandsons. I suggest Jim look for a Hirondelle or a Jarcat, which is trailerable. If he does a web search, he will find many references to both boats. If my memory is correct, Good Old Boat published an article a few years ago on small cruising catamarans. (We did. See "Oh, for a cruising multihull," September 2000 –Eds.). Glad to hear he doesn't want to give up sailing.
Gene Buchholz

Good Old Boat Regatta

For the last 10 years, I have mostly been cruising. However, in October 2010 I entered my 1975 Bristol 34 in the Good Old Boat Regatta in Annapolis. This was a really fun event! The best part was the second day when my crew consisted of my 10-year-old twin grandchildren and their mother.

The kids watched the other boats, my daughter watched the kids and took some pictures, and I sailed the boat. We came in fourth (not saying how many others were racing). The kids absolutely loved it and want to race again. This is a big deal because they haven't really liked sailing much — too boring when the wind is light and too scary when the wind pipes up. But they're both competitive and I think the race helped to put what was happening on our boat into some sort of context for them.

It was also good for me. Although my boat was designed as a cruiser/racer, it is set up and equipped more for cruising and I don't want to change that. It was good to be able to get out and compete again and good to be able to fan the spark of interest in two potential new sailors. We'll be back!
Jim Fulton

Making connections between sailors

Milo and Olin

I met Milo Feinberg, a Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) freshman, taking my physical education intermediate ice-skating class. Somehow sailing seems to enter my conversations with people and, so it happened in a conversation with Milo. He was wearing a Castine, Maine, shirt with a schooner for a logo. I learned he loves sailing and so do I. He has a Stone Horse in the family. He said his aunt bought the boat after reading the article by Gail Scott in 2002 (Bill and Margaret McBrine and their Stone Horse were featured in our January 2002 issue. –Eds.). Also in the same issue is a picture of Milo alongside Olin Stephens. Today, Milo is studying to be a naval architect. Thank you for helping make the connection between good old boat lovers.
Bill McBrine

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